![]() What important safety information is found on a boats capacity plate? What is most important when selecting the right type of PFD for a passenger? ![]() But I'll say this: if there's risk of damage to your motor from one simple soft grounding, there's no reason ever to buy a motor like that it's not made for outdoor use.How should a vessels registration number and validation decal be displayed? There may be things peculiar to an i/o (like the drive system and raising the motor to run) that I don't know adn thus I didn't comment. I think it's best to keep it moving rather than let it settle.īy the way, stirring up the bottom while moving forward is not an issue you are leaving the stirred up stuff behind you it's clean in front of the prop.Īs you know, channels are not "no wake zones." That was an odd comment I took it to mean you were going too slow.īut I have to add that my 50 years of low water running is all outboards. You can have black water come out the telltale then go run in some seawater and be fine. So don't go tearing your LU apart or other parts just over that one time. If you run in sandy muddy water all the time, then yes you do need to change your impeller once a year. Whatever you sucked up, you flushed out on the way home. Third, there is no need to worry about sucking up sand/silt on your one run-aground. Keep in mind that it stirs up a lot of sediment (more on that later) and you don't have a skeg protecting your prop. There are plenty of sandbars with sheer drop-offs of over 10'.Īttempting to back off at low power and tilted up is the first thing to try. Not to mention that you may get into deep water, currents, a drifting-away boat, etc. In the summer you might not mind duck hunters feel differently about that approach. Second, boaters don't jump overboard except as a last resort* there are many skills and tools to deal with shallow water and running aground. You also learn how to run on a plane over water you couldn't at slow speed.įirst, SS props do have hubs, unless you have a specially made prop that doesn't. With experience you can feel and hear the difference. A sudden hard sand hump is a bad thing but a gradual rise to shallow over a flat is typical. It's certainly typical to be running in sandy bottoms and bumping occasionally, and to stir up the bottom at low speeds. Well, maybe not hitting that hard daily but we've all done it at least once. ![]() lesson learned, I'm NEVER cutting it close to the channel markers again)ġ994 Larson Cabrio 280 | Single 7.4 Merc | Bravo-3 | Green Bay, WIĪ lot of worrying here over a minor event that is often part of a day's boating on the coast. I came back in the rest of the 15 minute trip at WOT without noticing any large vibrations or any other obvious problems, but now that I'm back at the slip safely is there anything I should check / look out for?Īlso, in the future, whamming on the throttle to force my way out PROBABLY wasn't the best idea, right? And, is it safe to trim the Bravo-3 up while the engine is running, or while forward / reverse is engaged? I thought I read somewhere that you shouldn't trim the out-drive while underway. Luckily it's all sand and muck around here, so the landing was pretty soft and I don't think anything shredded the hull.Īfter freaking out a little bit, and trying to power out of it with 1/2 - 3/4 throttle to no success, I trimmed the Bravo3 all the way up (props ALMOST out of water) and was able to slowly push out in forward idle & turn around. I noticed the boat stop so I powered down to neutral immediately, but the deceleration was enough to send my buddy on the back seat forward into the deck table. So I was trucking right along at ~23MPH, happy as a clam on Saturday, when the depth went from about 28' to 1.5' in a real big hurry.
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